Land of my Forefathers (Part 3): Final Words

Tuesday 20-Aug-2019 (Bjorkliden to Oyjord)

As we approached Bjorkliden on the 18^th we passed through Abisko National Park (the ‘grocery shopping” picture above was taken near Abisko), which at 77 km², is rather small by NZ standards… but it was established in 1909, and is one of the earliest European national parks. While we note above, that “it began to rain again” after we stopped in Bjorkliden – this region actually lies in the rain shadow of the mountains to the west – and is one of the sunniest places in Sweden. And on this day – it was sunny!

Another view of the mountains (on the right) that lie adjacent to Abisko National Park

The park is known as the garden of the Swedish mountains for its rich flora… and the water in the River Abiskojakka is crystal clear – due to the absence of glaciers in the catchment area.

An "installation"(?) at the entrance to the Park headquarters - that provides details about the surrounding peaks and lakes etc.

The end of the canyon of the Abiskojakka River before it empties into Tornetrask

Sadly - we can't name any of these plants - but they provide some evidence of the statement that this park is the garden of the Swedish mountains.  I wonder if anyone can help us out with naming these, as well as those below?  If so - please email us.

Ditto...

And again.... perhaps you can see the structure of the plant that looks a little "like" a Norfolk Pine...

The Subway under the E10 road also has an "installation" - it is a mural showing the four seasons of the park, and Sami inspired music that plays as you walk through.  This is just one panel from that mural.

It was only about 40 km to the border – but it did take us a while to get there… as there were many stops for photographs (which we will not bore you with)… but a couple of points about the lake that dominates the landscape here - Lake Tornetrask.  It is Scandinavia’s largest mountain lake (at 70 km length, 168m at it’s deepest), but at 330 km² only the 6^th largest (by area) in Sweden (the largest is Vanern, 5,519 km²) – but it is the second deepest! And by the way “trask” is the local word for lake (although in standard Swedish it means “swamp” (which confused us a little when we used Google Translate to look it up) – so Gemtrask, Burtrask, …).

We can attest to the purity of the water too – we drank some, and we survive still…

Lastly – there was an interesting outdoor “museum” at Abisko – discussing the place of the E10 road in defence of Sweden.  Apparently, what is now the E10 road through this region was considered a potential threat to national security – allowing rapid movement by friend (or foe) through this region of critical national importance (see note on Boden Fortress above) – and so the Swedish section of the road was not completed until 1982.  And bridges were constructed so that they could quickly be destroyed in case of invasion, and many trenches and fortifications built – right through to the 1980s.

Our last view of Sweden was at Riksgransen, and not dissimilar to the above, but Lake Vassijaure in this case.  

Assuming our use of the Microsoft Map tool is correct - the name of this lake is Vassijaure.

And we were amused at how some of the snow mobiles were “parked”… presumably at the end of last winter… some are quite precariously balanced!

A convenient place to park your snow mobile at the end of winter...

A final comment on our time in Sweden (even though we will briefly pass through it again after leaving Norway on the road “south”). We loved the landscape: of birch forests, lakes, the :endless” sense of places such as Lappland, and central Sweden, and the skies. In terms of one of the main reasons we came here – to find out more about our “family” here in Sweden – it feels like new bonds have been established that will last long, and old connections renewed and deepened.  We have been multiply blessed and are so grateful for the friendship and fellowship extended to us.

The Red arrow points to the line of the border - with Lake Vassijaure on the right hand side.

And so we passed into Norway – through another unmanned border crossing. Then… on coming over the next ridge – we were surprised to see widespread evidence of human habitation – with houses built on what looked like a large, barren boulder field!  Except here – they are coloured “black”!  Summer cottages perhaps?

The next feature of the landscape was a signpost for the Battle of Narvik – or more correctly, part of the land battle of Narvik – as it was fought both at sea (won by Britain) and on land – eventually won by Germany after Britain pulled out of Norway in June 1940 following the Battle of France (and Dunkirk etc.). The description of the battles in the region demonstrate great bravery, the doubtful loyalty of the Norwegian commander in chief of the Narvik area (who capitulated without a fight), as well as mismanagement (by the allied commanders) and divisional rivalry.

The Swedish side of the border looked barren and "lonely"... but almost as soon as we crossed into Norway - the land was green, verdant and there were lots of houses / cottages on the lakes and hills... must have a different climate! 

It seems that Norwegians may also have a love of old American cars…. The Campsite manager’s Pontiac El Dorado was on show for all campers… as were the mountains behind Narvik!  We didn’t actually make it to Narvik proper – but instead to Oyjord – across the Ofotfjorden from Narvik.

The El Dorado… and our introduction to Norwegian camping... and to a backdrop of mountains!

It did feel familiar to be among mountains, “somewhat” similar to those that can be found in NZ.  The forest colours are also quite different – being a deep shade of green (more spruce?) than in Sweden – where much of the forest seems to be birch.