Culture, Repairs, and Assisi…

Saturday, Sunday, Monday 18 to 20-May-2019 (Florence)

As we note… it began to rain, only clearing to some sunshine on Monday. It was nice though – to be driven back into Florence in a Bus – and to see how they deal with the narrow roads… pretty much, biggest has the most say, and if in doubt, goes first. So what is there to do in Florence, other than buy leather, and look at some paintings… oh, and wait in queues – and so we did… all three. 

To provide a better understanding of the city – I will ignore the order in which the phots were taken (but as a hint, if the sky is blu(ish), it was Monday… and if you see umbrellas – it was Saturday)

Florence from the Piazzale Michaelangelo

Looking "through" one of the many jewellery shops on the Ponte Vecchio (with the river Arno and bridge through the window)

Our plan was to visit what are considered the more important sites: Palazzo Pitti, Uffizi (we even know how to pronounce it now), Galleria dell’Academia (to see the “real” David, as opposed to the imitation outside Palazzo Vechio), the Duomo and Baptistry, Ponte Vechio, Santa Croce, Palazzo Vechio and Piazzale Michelangelo, and anything else we happened to stumble upon that looked interesting.  Well not all plans work out… all possible tickets for the week of 20-May had already been sold for Galleria dell’Academia, and similarly, the Baptistry had no tickets available for Monday 20-May.  Oh well, no matter.

Palazzo Pitti

Not sure what we were quite expecting – but we were overwhelmed! Almost everything that can be “decorated” is a paining of one kind or another. As Wikipeadia notes: “it is a vast, mainly Renaissance, palace in Florence”. The core of the Palace dates back to 1458… and as you might guess (from present day experience) – it was originally the town residence of an “ambitious Florentine banker”… so it seems, nothing changes with time! Later, the Medici’s bought it – in 1549. Napolean spent some time here too.  I do have to say though – these folks, like those in Genoa – must have ended up with sore necks (!) – how else can one see the ceilings, i.e. “vaults” (since not every room can be a bedroom) – which are nearly all covered with the most amazing imagery!  Why did they do that (spend so much on painting their ceilings… Robin you are going to have to straighten us out on this point! – we are simply Philistines when it comes to the “classics”)?

One of those "vault(ed)" ceiling paintings...

A very typical "room" in the Palazzo Pitti...

Greek mythology plays a big part in the paintings (as well as "religious" themes)

Look carefully - the waves / water is the pattern in the piece or marble on which this is painted.

David leads the Ark of the Covenant into Jerusalem 

A Madonna and Child by Lippi.

A Raphael... apologies I do, have the name … but if you enlarge it - you can figure it out!

Ufizzi Gallery

Best known for its collection of Italian Renaissance art. It is also one of the first “modern” museums – it has been open to the public since 1765.  So, more paintings… and sculptures… and paintings for alters… by Lippi, Michelangelo, Raphael, Reubens,  Giotto, Botticelli, Leornardo da Vinci, Rembrandt, etc.

Botticelli's The birth of Venise  

Umh.... but the light emanating from baby Jesus is beautiful...

A Botticelli, Madonna of the Magnificat (c 1483) - Mary is writing what is known as the Canticle of Mary - one of Botticelli's most celebrated works.

Marco Palmezzano (c 1500-150) Crucifixion - warm tones, Mary, Mary Magdalene and John at his feet.

The Annunciation by Leonardo da Vinci.

Santa Croce (i.e. Holy Cross)

The principal Franciscan church in Florence – and the burial place of, e.g.  Michelangelo, Galileo, Machiavelli and Rossini – and we saw memorials to Marconi and Leonard da Vinci (who is buried in France) among others.  It’s quite large – with 16 chapels and lots of frescos. Construction began in 1294 – but it took a while… being consecrated in 1442. Perhaps we were fortunate to be able to see this church, as it was closed indefinitely in Oct 2017, after falling masonry killed a tourist.  As with other Franciscan churches – it is quite austere (as is the Duomo).

The main transcept in Santa Croce (the ceiling is very intricate)

Said to be the cloak and belt of St. Francis (I have taken a photo of just a section of the garment).

The restored (following the flood) "Last Supper" in the refectory at Santa Croce.

It was during this visit that we became aware of the impact of the Arno flood of 4^th November 1966. As well as 101 deaths – it destroyed millions of masterpieces of art and rare books. The flooding of Florence was due to both high rainfall, and a large release of water from the Valdarno dam, which engineers though might otherwise burst.  At its highest, waters reached over 6.7m depth in the Santa Croce area, and the Piazza del Duomo was also flooded. 

Seeing what the “Last Supper” looked like after the flood – it is surprising that any thing could be recovered… Likewise Gaddi’s, (1290-1366 and Giotto’s “most talented pupil) Tree of Life and “Last Supper” fresco in the “dining room” – now referred to as the refectory.

Gaddi's Tree of Life and Last Supper (Santa Croce refectory)

Duomo

Formally, Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore, also begun in the 1200’s (1296 to be precise, and “structurally” completed in 1436 – but the exterior decoration was not completed until 1887, is pretty on the outside (the white, pink and green marble), but required a very long wait (90+ minutes) in the queue to enter… and then to remember that apart from the fresco in the dome (by Vasari and Zuccari – completed in 1579) – that the interior is vast and relatively empty – with little adornment / or decoration, quite unlike many of the other churches we have visited.

The Baptistry and Duomo - not nearly as good as one of Karilyn's photos - but I don't yet have that on the PC...

Detail over the main entry door of the Duomo.

The Alter in the Duomo

Time has run out, the judgement is under way... most people are going to heaven.

Palazzo Vecchio

This is the building with the tall tower – visible from almost everywhere… We were running out of time by now (that long wait in the Duomo queue…) – so the visit was even more cursory than those to the churches and museums above.

It had an interesting exhibit of Leonardo Da Vinci’s work (he seems clearly to be seen as a son of Florence…even if he spent the last years of his life in France) – as it is 500 years since his death. It included originals of some of his drawings and writings (e.g. on the flight of birds), and one of his paintings.

Christ - LEonardo da Vinci.

Yet another highly decorated room.... 

The rest of the building contained more stunning frescos and paintings (sore neck territory again), and another Last Supper – we have now seen so many it is hard to keep a count!

And another Last Supper.

And that ended our visit to Florence… 

Tuesday 21-May-2019 (Troghi (i.e. Florence) to Urbano)

Over the last 2 weeks or so we noticed that the water pump was pulsing on and off, which seemed like it was not as it should be – and if it failed, would be very bad! After a few WhatsApp messages to/from Jonas – we knew we needed to have it seen too.  Called the Dethleffs agent in Florence to see if they could help… but it turns out they only sell and rent Dethleffs motorhomes (among others) – no mechanic on site.  Instead they use “Fly Camper”… on the way to Rome.  Even spelling out an address here can be not very straightforward … why don’t all these languages say a as “a” and b as “b”… and etc(!)… needless to say what I wrote down as an address bore no resemblance to a real place.  Google to the rescue… and guess what “Fly Camper” was based in a town just 10 km from the camp site at Troghi!

However before departing Camping Villiage Il Pogetto (in Troghi) – there was the small matter of getting Fiat out of the muddy lake in which it now resided. Brother Robert having regaled me with tails about these “front wheel drive campervans getting stuck on grass after a brief shower” – I wondered how well this extraction would go.  Well, we backed off the levelling ramps, engaged traction control and drove straight out without any wheel spin at all… and so we were off to “Fly Camper” (after dumping the grey water and filling up with fresh water etc…).  Arrived at Fly Camper at 11.30… the technician dropped what he was doing (putting tail lights onto another caper van), and began investigating.  Checked the pipe layout a cleaned the inline filter, no improvement, bypassed the pump with another one… problem identified – bad pump.  So off he went to get a replacement one from spares (yes they had them in stock)… replaced, put back together and all done in about 45 minutes… paid and we were out the door just as lunch time started (12.30 pm – when nearly everything closes for 2 hours). And so we set off for Urbino in Le Marche (another most beautiful town) – our next stop on this tour. It is also where Raphael was born.

Italian roads apart from the major Autostrada Routes – often present some appalling challenges to the suspensions of vehicles (and the passengers in those vehicles). They are worse than any roads we have ever driven on in NZ.  Endless potholes that have been filled and refilled and or the surface has just deteriorated into a series of tar seal corrugations – everything feels like it will shake apart… mile after mile after mile.  A clamouring cacophony of sounds that threaten to overwhelm (somewhat added to by the clanging from the dashboard extension issue – to be fixed when Fiat gets back to Isny – unless I decide I really must take a screw driver to it and see what I can see!).

While the Camping Ground may get a 4 overall, as regards location (this is what we could see out of the front window of Fiat.... it was stunning - a "10".

Wednesday 22-May-2019 (Urbino to Assisi)

The camp site here, Camping Pineta, left a little to be desired – so was the first camp site that we have not taken a shower!  It was also the most expensive to date (at 30 Euros / night). As we move south, we are discovering that, with respect to the facilities provided by camp sites… a) toilet seats are no longer a required b) neither is toilet paper, and c) nor handwashing soap…  So we left Camping PIneta after one night, and found a parking space in the city – quite close to the old town…. and it was free too!

The countrywide around Urbino

Everything you need to make a street seem "harmonious"

Outside the Palazzo Ducale - looking toward the Duomo (closed on Wednesdays!)

You would get fit living in Urbino! 

The beauty of the Palazzo Ducale (other side!)

On visiting Raphael’s home – the point that most struck us was, how large the rooms were. The guide material seemed to suggest that the room sizes were just as they were in 15th Century… but perhaps we were misled!  Aside: Raphael’s great rival was Michelangelo, was incredibly productive, and died at age 37.

The Courtyard "behind" Raphael's house... it too seemed quite "perfect" in proportion.

Raphael paining in a form that looks more like that of Leonardo da Vinci

Look into those eyes...

This is the "Flagellation of Piero dela Francesca" and seemed to be an important painting - based on the long series of interpretations that accompanied it.

The intricacy of the inlays in the timber "decorations" are remarkable... some of these pieces are only a few mm's in length.

Next stop Assisi… 135 km south west of Urbino.  We arrived in time to see the setting sun on the old town of Assisi – behind Fiat…

Assisi!

And as seen behind "Fiat"... using a longish lens and a large F number.

And an Umbrian sunset...

Sun setting over the beautiful Umbrian countryside.

Thursday 23-May-2019 (Assisi)

We are camped at “Green Village Assisi” – just under the old town of Assisi as you can see from yesterday’s photographs…

While I was feeling a bit off colour (sore throat, runny nose) on Tuesday/Wednesday – I seemed to have given Karilyn a much more substantial dose – and symptoms… so a day of rest for her (though I don’t think it would be fair to say she feels “rested”!).  So it was agreed that I would take a bike and reconnoitre Assisi for a visit together (hopefully tomorrow).  As you can see, Assisi is built on a hill… so a bit of a test for our Kindergarten bikes (a term my Sister uncharitably used to refer to their fine features!).  They pass – I got all the way to the top of the “mountain” – or in this case the fort that you can see on the left hand side of the top of the hill – a climb of 357m according to my tracking app… and on the down hill achieved 44.6 kph (yes I know that is slow, Robert!)– without any speed wobbles – and I still had a nominal 81 km of range left!  Have now done 111 km on the bike – so they are proving their worth.

No photography is allowed in the Bascilica di San Francisco.  But I can say that the frescos by Giotto and Martini are extremely lovely – and this is the first church that I have been in that has had a “feeling” of being a special place.  You will have to look on the web to see what these churches actually look like inside. For the upper church (Gioto) see https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Saint_Francis_cycle_in_the_Upper_Church_of_San_Francesco_at_Assisi and for the lower church see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/San_Martino_Chapel but neither of these convey the sense and continuity if these frescos.

Bascilica di San Francisco... with a field of poppies in the foreground (a very common site - and very evocative of ANZAC day).

The Bascilica di San Francisco

From the Lion Fountain - the Roman Temple of Minerva (dating from the 1st Century BC) now a church.

Typical street scene in Assisi (here it is on Via S. Gabriele Dell'Addol Orata)

Just to prove that Kindergarten BIke and I, made it up to the top Fort you can see from the campground - Rocca Maggiore - 357m above where I started.

Rocca Maggiore - viewed from Rocca Minore

The viewtowards the Camp Site from Rocca Maggiore

The Lantern Restaurant - my lunch stop... at 3 pm.